Day 13 – A Walk On The Adolf Munkel Weg

Oct 20, 2022

Today’s Adventure

On Thursday Cindy and I took advantage of another beautiful day to enjoy one of the region’s marquee hikes – the Adolf Munkel Weg, a well-known trail that loops through the Parco Naturale Puez Odle, less than an hour from our homebase in Brixen.

We started out from the Brixen Bahnhof with a bus ride from Brixen Bahnhof eastward into Val di Funes – this twisty route took us up to Santa Maddalena / St. Magdalena and then continued eastward to the Zanserhütte, a rather new and contemporary-looking rifugio located more-or-less at the end of the road. There’s a parking lot there in addition to the bus stop so it’s a popular starting point for hikes in this area. From the Zanserhütte it was just short walk along Trail 6 until we crossed a small bridge and then took a left through the gate onto Trail 35, the Adolf Munkel Weg.

The Adolf Munkel Weg is a long loop hike that winds through forests, meadows, and scree fields along the western side of foot of the Odle Group. The Odles are known for jagged spires, rocky cliffs, and impressive summits all arranged in one unforgettable and distinct grouping. This walk reminded us that winter was approaching and that the mountains were steeper and taller than they look because much of our walk was in the shadows of the Odles – the sun did not clear the crest of the Sass Rigais and Furchetta peaks until it was almost lunchtime.

Aside from the astounding views on the first leg of our hike the highlight of the day was our visit to the Geisler Alm, a.k.a. the Rifugio delle Odle, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the sun. It was definitely time to put on some sunscreen as our table faced due east towards the mountains. The outdoor terrace was mostly empty when we arrived just before Noon but was very nearly full when we left an hour and a half later. That’s not bad for an off-season weekday where *all* of the customers have to walk at least several miles to get there!

For today’s ‘Two Beers with a View’ Cindy tried the local chestnut beer while I had my usual draft Forst pils. The creative presentation for Cindy’s lunch gave all new meaning to ‘box lunch’ – she ordered the barley risotto in a tomato cream sauce with fresh burrata and it was presented in a small hand-crafted miniature crate. I had my usual hiker’s lunch of local eggs, speck, and potatoes which was excellent, as was the view! For dessert we shared the Geisler Alm’s unique and very delicious cheese strudel with warm vanilla sauce accompanied by some Pear Williams schnapps.

After finishing our lunch and wandering the grounds of the rifugio we headed into the woods on Trail 4 for our return to Ranui. This is the wide spot in the road just above Santa Maddalena that is home to the Church of St. John or Chiesetta di San Giovanni. We lucked out in that no tour buses were present when we walked by so we were able to get some good photos without annoying flocks of Instagram tourists milling about.

We caught Bus 330 at the bus stop in Ranui for the ride back down the Val di Funes to the Brixen Bahnhof. Thiis was, by now, very familiar territory so a stroll through the Old Town, with quick stop at our favorite gelato stand, was the obvious way to end the day’s adventure.

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