The Dolomites
January 2020Our Italian Odyssey
In January of 2020 Cindy and I visited the Italian province of South Tyrol (Südtirol in German and Alto Adige in Italian). This mountainous province, home to the spectacular Dolomites, is located in the northeastern corner of Italy and lies just across the border from Austria. South Tyrol was actually part of Austria until immediately after World War I when it was granted to Italy as part of Austria’s war reparations. The people, language, architecture, and food of this Alpine wonderland retain a surprisingly strong Germanic bias even after a century of Italian influence.
We stayed just north of Cortina d’Ampezzo in a small village called Dobbiaco. This location put us very close to much of the region’s cross-country skiing and snow-hiking terrain as well as great views of the Dolomites and excellent access to public transportation including the regional bus and train networks.
One of the real joys of this trip was our ability to have truly special lunches in some very special locations just about every day. Cindy did a stellar job of researching the area and identifying some great restaurants for us that also meshed perfectly with our hiking or skiing plans for each day. The lunches more or less became our destinations for each outing and, in most cases, were just as memorable as the scenery along the way. For this reason I made a conscious effort to photograph many of the dishes and have included them in the blog entries below.
This 16 day adventure also included a couple of days in Munich, Germany and Innsbruck, Austria for some sightseeing at either end of our all-too-short time in Italy. Munich and Innsbruck are both exceedingly European cities but not so large as to be overwhelming. We very much enjoyed our time exploring them on foot and by train, but in retrospect we both wish that we had spent this additional time in the mountains – that will certainly be our intention on the next trip!
Our Blog For This Trip
Day 1 – Washington to Munich
Cindy and I are off to explore the Dolomites in northern Italy via cross-country skis and snowshoes. This lesser known area of the Alps is considered by many to be the most beautiful, so we’re looking forward to our arrival early tomorrow (Monday) afternoon.
Day 2 – Munich to Dobbiaco
Yesterday was another travel day for Cindy and I. We left our hotel in Munich around 8:00 AM, picked up some travel food from one of the many shops at the Munich Hauptbahnhof (main train station), enjoyed a leisurely latte, and boarded our train for Italy.
Day 3 – The Alpenhotel Ratsberg
Cindy and I had a great Tuesday wandering the hiking trails just north of Dobbiaco, IT. Our main reason for visiting this area was cross-country skiing but there hasn’t been any fresh snow in days so we’re switching to snowshoes and winter boots.
Day 4 – The Innerfeldtal Valley
Today’s outing allowed Cindy and I to experience more of the beautiful scenery here in the Dolomites. We took the ski bus from Dobbiaco eastward through the town of Innichen and hopped off at a fairly remote stop near the entrance to the Innerfeldtal Valley.
Day 5 – The Prato Piazza
Today’s adventure was an outstanding winter hike in the Prato Piazza, a high alpine valley surrounded by some of the best scenery in the Dolomites. Of all the days that Cindy and I have spent in the mountains this was easily Top Five in terms of epic scenery.
Day 6 – Alpe Nemes Hütte
Our Friday outing was a circuit hike starting in the small town of Moos and peaking not far from the Austrian border at the popular Alpe Nemes Hütte. We began our day in Dobbiaco on a regional bus that took us to today’s trailhead, not far from the village of Moos.
Day 7 – Lago di Braies
On Saturday Cindy and I decided to explore the Lago di Braies. The Lago di Braies is a beautiful lake high in the Dolomites not far from our home base in Dobbiaco. The lake is completely frozen now, but in the summer it has the surreal green-blue coloration of other glacier-fed lakes that we’ve seen. Overall the lake reminds us very much of Lake Louise in Canada.
Day 8 AM – The Jora Hütte
Our morning outing started out with a bus ride (of course!) and a pleasant stroll through the charming town of Innichen. We then hiked southeast out of town on a designated winter route. This route followed the main road to Kreuzberg Pass before climbing up into the forest and looping back towards town.
Day 8 PM – Lago di Dobbiaco
Our late afternoon outing was a loop hike from the apartment southward towards Cortina d’Ampezzo – tomorrow’s destination – along a designated winter route. Today’s destination was the beautiful Lago di Dobbiaco, located in the mouth of a steep valley heading south along the road to Cortina.
Day 9 – Cortina d’Ampezzo
For Monday’s adventure Cindy and I hopped on a mid-morning bus for Cortina d’Ampezzo, a major winter resort just 20 miles south of Dobbiaco. Cortina was the site for the 1956 Winter Olympics and was recently selected, along with Milan, as the host city for 2026.
Day 10 – Gasthof Waldruhe
For our Tuesday adventure Cindy and I took the bus eastward from Dobbiaco to the town of Innichen. We walked across town where we found our trailhead at the edge of the forest. Our destination was a small restaurant high above Sesto called the Gasthof Waldruhe.
Day 11 – Wahlen & Kandellen
Cindy and I were both ready for a relatively easy day, so for our Wednesday outing we stayed fairly close to Dobbiaco. We left the apartment on foot (no bus, for a change) and walked north out of town to explore the beautiful San Silvestro Valley.
Day 12 – The Drei Zinnen View
Cindy and I decided to take advantage of the excellent cross-country skiing facilities for our last outing in Dobbiaco. The lack of snow has made it tough for the groomers to maintain the trails, thus our focus on winter hiking, but we couldn’t go home without at least one day on skis!
Day 13 – The Top Of Innsbruck
Cindy and I traveled from Dobbiaco to Innsbruck by bus and train earlier today. When we arrived in Innsbruck we checked into our Airbnb and immediately headed out for the Hafelekar, a nearby mountain peak also known (for good reason) as ‘The Top Of Innsbruck’.
Day 14 – Innsbruck Altstadt
Cindy and I visited Innsbruck, Austria this past Friday and Saturday on our way to Munich for Monday’s flight home. When our itinerary for this year’s Italian odyssey put us in the area we decided to add a couple of nights for wandering around this beautiful Alpine city.
Day 15 – Freising
On Sunday morning Cindy and I left Innsbruck and headed for Munich so that we would be in position for our flight home via Amsterdam on Monday. We traveled early in the morning so that we’d have most of the day to have some fun in the Munich area.
The Grand Finale
Here’s the grand finale post for our Italian Odyssey. I can’t thank Cindy enough for all of the planning that made it such a great trip. In honor of her efforts I’ve combined all of the “Two Beers With A View’ images into this one ‘Readers Digest’ blog entry.
Useful Links For The Dolomites
General Information Wikipedia
Weather weather.com
Official Website Dobbiaco.eu
Tourist Office Welcome To Dobbiaco
Travel Planning Trip Advisor
Lodging Airbnb / VRBO
Train Dobbiaco & Toblach Schedule